Grey Dogs and Blue Skies - The Garvellachs
by Mike Buckley
This started as an informal 4 star (sea) training trip for Rob - and an intro to sea boats for Dave - which I gatecrashed having heard a suggestion that they were going to play in and around the Sound of Jura. But...in the event, the chaps who were going to be the "grizzled expert sea-dogs" sharing expertise couldn't go so Rob, Dave and I decided to go anyway.
Now that Arduaine is closed, camping is a problem so (being hardy souls) we opted to B&B on Friday and launch on the tide on Saturday morning. Subsequently, it seems that Lunga House may be offering camping with basic facilities and as that is near to Croabh Haven which has a very nice pub with excellent Guinness, it might solve the problem.
Much playing with tide tables to try and get the Corrievreckan right resulted in the discovery that Easytide predictions for Seil Sound produce an accurate prediction for the Gulf if you knock off an hour! Much debate over several pints very late on Friday produced a decision to take the scenic route anyway so we launched onto a mirror calm sea on Saturday and slipped past the end of Luing where a porpoise was fishing and then out thro the Grey Dog as the tide turned and ran up to the Black Isles on a mill-pond. Evidence of the local outdoor centre was found as Dave explored a pleasant cave on one of the islands, well stocked with fire-wood apparently, and we dodged a few ripples and eddies as we headed West in search of the saints. Still stunning conditions! Sea state was smooth and only light airs, all under a blue sky. Just as well, being a wimp I don't really fancy being out there in poor conditions.
The cliffs on the outside of the chain are home to one or two gulls and other assorted birdie creatures including an eagle - but he must have been off hunting elsewhere as he didn't greet us, sadly. We rock hopped thro the gap at the southern end which resulted in a crash stop for me, whereas my two companions manoeuvred thro in fine style. Compliments to the Quest - despite ramming a wall I only scuffed the gel coat on the bow!
Whether the yachties-in-residence mistook us for latter day Viking raiders we shall never know, as our arrival seemed to prompt their departure. Tents pitched, we dined in splendour with Dave demonstrating his culinary talents with a melange of the local winkles and a few other shell bound rock beasties. Sat on the ridge to watch the sun set and then moved into the chapel telling tales and sharing stories in the light of a solitary candle, a night enlivened by a crow cawing just at the punch line of one of my tales of mythology! (Well, I hope it was a crow!!) Interestingly, I recall the comment in Hamish Haswell-Smith's book "Scottish Islands" which suggests that "it's a brave man who overnights - ghosts - - etc" and I begin to wonder whether there might have been truth in the story told by a moored yachtie on Sunday morning who recounted awakening at 3.30am to what he swore was the sound of oars in leather rowlocks - - - - - .
Sunday night was misty and we launched into a sea mist which never cleared - unworldly paddling conditions but still flat calm. Superb trip via Belnahua where we met two kayakers who were at peace with the world and whose answer to my enquiry as to where they were headed was to shrug in a manner indicating that plans were only for those with too little time on their hands.
Up to Easdale for lunch in the pub and then down thro Cuan and back across Loch Melfort and an unwelcome reminder of civilisation in the form of the 35mph crawl in the Sunday-tripper traffic down Loch Lomondside! Very few seals but a total of 4 porpoises seen. Excellent trip. Even managed to get the tides right thro the Dog AND thro Cuan! Next time I go out with Rob I shall add some form of drogue to slow his new kevlar Nordkapp down a bit! Thanks to Rob and Dave for their company and good humour.
Mike Buckley.